A Review of Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2015 Show – Chanel Boulevard, Grand Palais, Paris

So Karl Largerfeld isn’t a stranger to conveying real life society in his fascinating Chanel catwalks and the recent s/s 15 show was no exception. Take a look at the major feminist protests on the news, now convert the women into models and place a complacent black and white figure in the lead under the name of Karl Otto Largerfeld. Only he could be the designer to take on such a contradictory topic. Fortunately, there was no police involved just the enthusiastic appraise of a style filled crowd including Alexa Chung (yes I always mention her) and Poppy Delevigne.

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Despite the usual chaotic atmosphere of a protest, Chanel consisted of a much greater elegance. Models consisting of Cara Delevigne, Kendall Jenner, Gisele Bundchen, Edie Campbell and Georgia May Jagger partly sauntered along the Chanel Boulevard in the Grand Palais, backs as far back as possible and faces as expressionless as possible, then for the finale, followed Karl along the catwalk carrying cardboard signs reading ‘Make fashion not war’, ‘Sans femmes plus d’hommes’ (Without women more men), ‘Tweed is better than Tweet’, ‘Be your own stylist’, ‘Free freedom’ and ‘Ladies First’ meanwhile Karl had Cara Delevigne and Gisele Bundchen shouting “What do we want? When do we want it” through the most trendy megaphones around (they were quilted underneath the Chanel logo). But let us not forget the advantage of receiving Alexa’s views on feminism after Grazia Magazine raised the question, her response being ‘a no-brainier that every women is a feminist and men should be them too’, she says this whilst two women appear behind looking star struck as hell to see her in reality (forever jealous). Moreover, Karl was also filmed capturing a selfie however the mouth stayed shut and the glasses remained covering the eyes. Not even a French tourist repeating “tout le fait” could give him the slightest bit of remark. 

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Focusing on the important features, the collection started off with vibrant colours including the themes of art deco and floral however the garments turned to the classic Chanel look; monochrome and gold through lace, metallic leather and delicate silk. Each look fit the specific model perfectly as some convincingly strode on in pairs or threes chatting to each other on a street that if real, would be an exceedingly opulent location in the world. Besides the fabrics mentioned, tweed made a continual presence throughout attire from the rim of maxi-coats to the sleeves of crop tops, as well as this, two looks deemed to be very hipster based depicting the finale of protest. One was made up of a khaki shoulder bag with the double Cs placed right in the middle of it, as if the Chanel logo is the new peace sign (I am so for this). Whereas the alternative hipster reference combined a distressed shirt dress with a bag bursting with rouge and rose embroidery yet what was most unique was the handle being leather and resembling that of the random school craft box material segment you use to stick on your collage back in primary school (elementary school). 

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What appealed the most were the accessories. I would die for every single one of them; chunky gold belts, petite bags reading ‘females first’ and those 70’s square glasses only nerds would wear… but in white. And let’s not forget the fact that Chanel can now be associated with maths after presenting a bag reading ‘5 x 5 = *Chanel Logo*. This leads me on to my next point, In the midst of the show there was quite a school vibe (i must say that if Chanel was a school it would get an ‘outstanding’ report from Ofsted as well as be private without a doubt). I believe this because of the white blouses and frilly collars likewise to the school girls in an anime film. Moreover, there was an exceeding amount of stripes both vertically and horizontally also demonstrating a sailor vibe, nonetheless the unimaginably expensive diamond Chanel logos, glossy brogues and childish buttons turned it into a kind of Gabrielle Chanel style mass. 

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Overall, my favourite look was Marie Antoinette pale white dress complimented by a chin cross-body bag, thick gold belt, what looks to be shiny brogues combined with sandals, some gold jewellery but most of all, glittery tights. Now I’m not usually taken by coloured tights, blacks as far as I’ll get but these look beautiful. Similarly futuristic due to their astronomical aesthetic, plus the skin colour of the leg is not completely coloured, there is neither too much nor too little of that sparkle of Chanel. What’s more, you would usually expect gold tights to appear as rather tacky and reasonably cheap though this form doesn’t relate to not either of the two mentioned points, it just has Chanel written all over it.

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Next, a tweed red and blue twin set over a thin polyester pink shirt. What instantly comes to mind is an utterly negative clash, still the wonders of Chanel managed to pull it off as one would expect. An exceptional example of the idea that each model wore the outfit that fit them was through this Scottish attire and tie-dye blouse (complete opposites) considering this already existing clash added to the bleached long hair of a model, this was beyond clashing. Beyond Clashing so much that it worked. This set fits your school P.E teacher (sports teacher) perfectly having a mature, non-movement outfit withal a quirky little silver whistle to justify their occupation. And when you thought that Chanel actually exhibited an outfit without some high-class bling, there was the essential Chanel Logo upon the key-ring of the set’s clutch (but no chain?). 

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 Everything in the show screamed glamour and delicacy which was extraordinarily emphasised by the idealistic street setting. It was corresponding to that of a street style location covered in Chanel. Karl risked some new looks for instance: grunge, school girl preppy and tie-dye (not generally seen on the designer catwalks) while he also stuck with the same standard Chanel sense of sophistication and a major amount of feminist intensity in the manner Gabrielle Chanel did back after World War I when she revolutionised women’s fashion from the influence of men.

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 Thanks for reading,

Poppy x

(Follow me on Instagram, I will be more than happy to follow anyone back who asks – http://instagram.com/carmamademedoit )

Back to the Future as New Reoccurring Trends are being Created

New York, London, Milan and finally PARIS: the city where inhabitants are said to be born with a natural flare for fashion, a place where love is only a foot-step away and a place where the fashion week season is concluded. Being the centre of mode and the anticipated ending, Paris is the location where all the big labels will speculate there Spring/Summer 2015 Collections. Comme des Garcons, Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier and many more; a budding designers biggest opportunity would be for their collection to be showcased at this particular event, forget London, Milan and New York, Paris is the pin-point of fashion success.

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Throughout Paris fashion week, we see the new collections yet there is always a different theme each year. This year that theme was futuristic. Alexandra McQueen had models wearing sleek black sun visors with faux fur garments, a mix of natural and contemporary, it was like having a female ‘men in black’. I believed the show to feel very astronomical due to the supernaturalism of alien resemblances. Just when I thought the show was creepy enough, all the models had closed mouths and a lacking facial expression. Overall ‘back to the future’ would be the perfect title. This idea of time was definitely conveyed through the group of hourglass dresses (faux fur of course) finished with a metallic sword shaped belt, resembling the costume your mum made you for fancy dress parties. Specifically designed by creative director, Sarah Burton, the women who famously curated the scheme of Kate Middleton’s angelic wedding dress, this collection of apparel emphasised the fluffy trend massively, mixing 60’s faux fur with 21st century metallic.

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Another designer that took us above and beyond the current times was Jean Paul Gaultier. The audience witnessed multiple selfies being taken as the models posed at the end holding up IPhones with over enthusiastic faces. Some pretended to call contacts with popular girl gestures as if it was a scene from Clueless just 20 years later. Gaultier was able to create garments that complimented picture taking. Dramatic is what the labels known for, also having stereo-typical wags, eighties Madonnas and even heroic wrestlers. Basically, the show was completely random still it appeared as being complete. To end, Jean Paul came on in a black suit overlaid with a pageant banner for his circus extravaganza.

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Besides the different approaches to futuristic collections, there was one re-occurrence that wasn’t just seen on the catwalk, smart phones, it is impossible to find a show of this season without the infinite rows of smart phones poised high primed and ready to post the latest looks to social media. We are in times when promotion by the brand is not a major need because there are always the wealthy and successful bloggers, journalists and celebrities whom the majority of which have over a hundred thousand followers on their social media accounts. These members of society can have a single photo taken of themselves in a hot pink leather Moschino skirt and instantly, this particular garment becomes the new quilted Chanel chain bag. On the other hand, one of these people could mention how the Dries Van Noten ankle boots were a complete waste of money and in an instant, 50,000 people are put of purchasing the apparel.

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Furthermore, the catwalks are no longer just a place of presenting clothes but IPhone cases too. Moschino gave out his signature unique and quirky collection involving Barbie mirror phone cases, a new addition to its previous ice cream case. Other brands such as Marc by Marc Jacobs and Valentino have released pouches for phones. Valentino in particular offers a red gold-studded case for £190 however there is hope as a Marc by Marc Jacobs Bunny Hop case comes in at £35, well worth it if you regard the considerable amount of times your phone is shown in public daily. My favorite case is doubtlessly that of Moschino’s, being very present-day anyway with the use of a Mcdonald’s fries design, Barbie doll mirror and ice cream, the pouches combined with modern day technology just reflects the contemporary subject greatly.

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Evidently, glossy shades are the standard colour of the future, metallics to be precise. Metallics have hit this season hard, Givenchy has released shoes in dominant metallics for evening wear. Even some consisted of Butterfly prints, not one for me to be honest. Isabel Marant produced the a portable disco with its becka metallic leather tapered pants in gold which following on from the craze for leather pants, would love great with a maxi coat and shoulder bag (placed across the shoulder). Furthermore, the high street has also undertaken this space based look, Topshop triumphs overall providing items from those box shaped bags Alexa Chung always wears to old-school scrunchies (and we all know that scrunchies will never leave fashion).

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5 Trends of the Eighties – The Tragedies and the Successes

Although your reminiscence of the eighties is most possibly not the best considering it involves that of an excess of neon, tremendously obscure hairdos for example the mullet, and the men who wore shorts that were funnily enough, too short, there has been a rise in eighties throwbacks presented amongst this seasons catwalks. Particularly Chanel and Lanvin have shocked in vibrant turtle necks and models wearing prodigious mullets, the designers are certainly emphasising the eighties brights. But what can we pull off without looking like a die-hard raver in-need of a contemporary hair do? Well after some research through various sources of eighties fashion, I hope that I, myself can provide a response.

The Black Leather Jacket

Certainly not the most unappealing of 80’s attire nevertheless it was a sure root from testosterone. After John Travoltra’s appearance in Grease during 1978, the leather jacket was not an estimation of fashion but a guarantee of fashion. Slick and cool, this jacket also featured in 1985’s Back to the Future (everyone loves a bit of Marty McFly) and 1986’s Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (“Bueller… Bueller… Bueller…”). Despite the simplicity of this attire, the 80’s trend setters couldn’t resist adding some intensity to the piece through dominant patterns and loud colours. Personally I love the idea of pairing a leather jacket as part of a Rocker look, skinny jeans with a thick belt of course, and the distressed tank top. As well as this, add gold statement jewellery to increase the rebellion feel.

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Teased Hair

Not only did Grease predict the leather jacket but also the unnecessarily teased do. Back-combed and permed as much as possible, I admit that this wasn’t the best flash back. In fact, there is probably not a single 80’s film where no teased do is included. The biggest recommendation for achieving this style would be the bigger, the better and I just can’t resist referencing Bueller ok; I believe that Jennifer Grey’s hair was appropriate yet I thoroughly disliked Brooke Shields mainly due to the coiled fringe. All in all, the government should have set a law stating the measures of teasing size then we wouldn’t have to look back and cringe tremendously. Remember that there are limits but a teased style is always satisfactory for night outs because there is no light to see it. However, if you are risking the nest of hair and aiming for a tragic eighties appearance, place some neon leg warmers over a leotard and socks just because you’ll be drunk by the end of it.

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The Zipped Up Jumpsuit

Subsequent to the aerobics craze and ABBA’s costumes, jump-suits became a must have for not just girls, but boys too. Even though gays were vastly discriminated during this time period, there couldn’t have been any stereo-typical attire for them regarding the fact that straight men wore rompers showing half their chests. Nonetheless, the male jumpsuit isn’t a complete miss for everyone as without it the 90’s shell-suit may not have existed. Yes, I agree that a two piece matching shell is wrong in so many ways but take a look at the jackets. Alike to bombers, shell jackets can add flare to a colourless outfit without being mistaken for a character from the 1984’s Ghost Busters. Regularly wear your bomber jacket with super skinny jeans and if your brave enough, the classic circular Lennon sunglasses producing a hipster mixed with contemporary kind of look.

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Fish-Net 

Although your first thought after someone mentioning the netted fabric is gothic and emo. Amidst the eighties, these prevalent forms of hand-wear were viewed as Party pieces whilst still being an accessory for the every-day. Popularized by Madonna’s arrival along with the childish headbands and lace-ribbons, fish nets were originally the attachment of a hat piece elegantly worn by fashion icons such as Co Co Chanel and Audrey Hepburn. Generally, the fabric was opulent and higher class until it became a garment indicating rough hen-dos and dishevelled tramps. Please do not go crazy with the material identically to how Kate Moss did when she overlay a turquoise bikini in Marc Jacob’s fish net dress amid her August Ibiza holiday earlier this year. Neither replicate Madonna’s tartan catastrophe from the 2013 Met Gala. Instead, maybe copy that of Miley Cyrus’ look in placing the fabric above a plain maxi dress. Even though Miley has been in the media recently for her antithetical outfits, this is one that I deem applicable.

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Shoulder Pads

In addition to male taking on female clothing, females on the other hand undertook that of male clothing, an example being shoulder pads. I agree that they create a masculine appearance nevertheless they can be an easy route for providing sophistication to an item of apparel. In contempt of the fact that they look to be supportive and capable, these structures of padding tend to be quite uncomfortable due to their substantial weight for clothing. Thought to have been influenced by Iron Lady, Margaret Thatcher, shoulder-pads were considered as an apparel for people with an element of class. This explains why shoulder pads were most generally worn for formal occasions in the midst of the starting of other figure changing garments such as peplum skirts and batwing sleeves. Alternatively to the shell suits, it is acceptable to wear sholder parts as part of a matching two piece or akin to a found catwalk look; it is good to wear the pads with a considerable amount of layers along with an opaque bottom wear.

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Back then the main influence of fashion was evidently the film industry. Who doesn’t love the 80’s teen stereo-typical movie? Some of the most well-known and directed films were created in that time: The Breakfast Club, Pretty in Pink, Dirty Dancing, and Star-Wars. Still there is a recognizable link between all these films, they are teen, and young-adult dominated presenting the idea of there being no age limit in those days. Both mums and their teen daughter would wear the classic mum jean, both dads and there teen sons would attire a dapper leather jacket. Further on into the 21st century there still prevails those assuring attire that can be worn no matter what the age.